Everything left on the shed, in order · updated Oct 5, 2026 · full detail in the Build Guide · source: Roadmap.md
Get the roof weathertight, then trimmed and shingled.
Shim any ridge joint with daylight at the plumb cut, toe-screw each of the 10 interior rafters into the ridge, then install the five collar ties. All three are easier while the roof is open.
19/32 sanded plywood, B face down (it's your ceiling). Lower course first with its end seam on the center rafter, panel clips at the course seam, 3″ ring nails at 4″ on sheet ends and gable rafters and 6″ elsewhere, rafters only.
Cap-stapled in the pattern printed on the roll, 3″ course laps, 6″ over the ridge from each side. Wrap the rakes; leave the bottom 6–8″ loose at the eaves for the drip edge.
The building is weathertight on top. Safe to pause. The ridge diagonals and ridge props can come out once the deck is nailed off.
Staple 12–14″ ProArmor strips (the bands) along the top of the east and west walls, bottom 3–4″ left loose for the wall felt later. Then the eave fascia and shadow board, tops flush with each other.
Three plywood pieces per gable (a middle piece under the peak plus two corners), scribed to the end rafters. Then the band, then the rake fascia and shadow board, running out over the ends of the eave trim to finish flush.
At the eaves it slides under the loose ProArmor strip, which then staples back down over its flange. At the rakes it goes over the ProArmor. Square-cut deck edges; don't bend it.
Scrap-test the 3/4″ nails on a deck offcut first. Cut-your-own starter, six nails per shingle, Loctite dabs under the rake ends, cut 3-tab ridge caps.
The temporary wall braces can come out any time; take the cross-wall spreader out after the shingles.
Openings first, then felt, trim and cedar shingles, so every layer laps the right way.
On paper: the window sill pan and sill board, the stops that hold the sash, casing widths and head drip cap; the door threshold and its flashing; the gable vent model.
Cut the two openings out of the west-wall sheathing, clean to the framing. Cover them with plastic or a plywood scrap until the sash go in.
Sill pans and flashing tape on the side walls of each window opening. At the door, the threshold membrane: over the floor edge and down the rim, turned up a few inches onto each door post.
About 2 rolls of #30 felt from a roofing supply house, cap-stapled, bottom up with 2″ laps. Around each opening, every layer laps the one below it. The top courses slide up under the loose ProArmor bands. Set the gable vents in the same pass, centered with their trim about 2″ below the rake fascia.
Corner boards, window trim (sill, casings, drip cap over the head casing) and the door casing run all the way down to the bottom of the wall, over flashing tape.
With the Freeman nailer and stainless ring-shank coil nails. Pick the nail length (1-1/4″ or 1-1/2″) and buy the coils first.
Roof and walls are closed and finished outside. Everything left can happen at your own pace.
The parts you'll see and use every day.
Rehab them any time; install with the stops after the wall shingles, so the old glass stays clear of all the hammering.
Build, set the glass panels, hang. A threshold board goes over the membrane, overhanging the rim with a drip groove.
Cut the plywood strip out below the door, screw the ramp stringers to the pressure-treated rim joist, and tuck the top board under the threshold's overhang.
The accent color on the doors, sash and stops, chosen against the Weathered Gray roof.
Prep and paint once the floor plywood is dry. Fill the brace screw holes as part of the prep.
Any time after dry-in.
Remove the last temporary bracing, clear the gravel gap along the fence side, and build the fieldstone skirt.
The shed is finished.
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